Tiny Ratcoon's Customs
Monday, July 1, 2019
Zaya, the songstresss
Age: 19
Date of birth: February 17
Nationality: Former habitant of the cat kingdom
Hair color: Purple with streaks of magenta and blue
Eye color: Blue
Species: Werecat
Height: 5'4
Weight: 50 kg
Likes: singing, taking care of children and art
Dislikes: slavery, discrimination, cruel hearted people
Zaya is a beautiful werecat with snow white skin, with her gorgeous face, enchanting voice, and kind ways, she has captured the hearts of many men and women alike around the world. Zaya lived most of her life in her homeland, the cat kingdom, where the werecats are forced to live as slaves, while they are kept in extreme poverty and insanitary conditions, forced to serve the people of the wolf kingdom.
Zaya is a kind soul who used to tend to the wounded and sick and cares for the young who have lost their parents, even though she never formally recieved any proper training, she has been teaching herself since she was young how to treat the wounds and ailments that afflict her people.
One day, during the royal wolf family's monthly visit to the cat kingdom, she was summoned to perform for princess Viktoria, the queen's younger sister, who had heard rumors of her amazing voice and wanted to see if they were true for herself. After meeting her for the first time, Viktoria became deeply infatuated with Zaya, seeing her as the mother figure she never had, and decided to take her back to the wolf kingdom and make her her own personal servant, demanding she was by her side at all times. Most people would agree that Viktoria was a cold blooded ruthless killer that would stop at nothing to get what she wanted, but Zaya saw behind the act she put on and realized she was nothing more than a scared and deeply traumatized child, Zaya didn't agree with her ways, but she still cared deeply for her, treating her with the same love and patience she treated the cat orphans with.
Shortly after coming to the wolf kingdom, she met queen Alenka, and the two inmediately fell in love with each other. At first Zaya tried to avoid the queen as much as possible, as homosexuality was a crime punishable by death in the wolf kingdom, but both of them soon realized they couldn't stay away from each other and began a secret relationship, meeting every night after the princess went to sleep.
One night, princess Viktoria woke up in the middle of the night and noticed that Zaya was not by her side, she ordered everyone to search every corner of the castle until she was found, this led to her relationship with the queen being discovered, the queen was dethroned and exiled soon after since the law stated that a member of the royal family couldn't be executed. Viktoria rose to power and since she couldn't bring herself to harm her mother figure, she locked her up to make sure she would never leave her side again, luckily, Alenka, who knew the castle in and out like the palm of her hand, managed to sneak in and free her, and they both ran away together.
Zaya and Alenka have been living in the woods ever since, in hopes they can have the happy ending they both longed for and love each other freely.
Saturday, June 22, 2019
Wound/scarred tissue tutorial
Hey guys! Finally I have managed to finish my first tutorial!
As someone who has always been into survival horror games and enjoys making horror dolls, it was no surprise I quickly came across the need to make wounded or scarred tissue on them. My first attempt back in September 2018 consisted on burning the plastic of the doll's body and just painting on the bloody tissue on the face, which worked semi well, but didn't give me the result I wanted. So after digging up some info online, I came up with this method which I think looks amazing and way more realistic than attempt no. 1!
These are the materials we will need.
A doll, in this tutorial I am using Jane Boolittle
A sealant
A soft manicure sanding block
Some cotton balls, It shouldn't take more than a quarter of a cotton ball for a small project like this
Some glue, I am using aleene's turbo dry tacky glue, but regular white craft glue works just as well
An old mug (don't use your good ones please since the glue can be hard to get out)
Some acrylic paints, I am using Vallejo model color in the colors hull red, Carmine red and scarlet red.
Some chalk pastels, I am using mungyo pastels
And a variety of paint brushes, the smaller the better, sizes I used are 00, 10/0 and 20/0. Remember most of these are gonna get messed up so try to use old ones if you can.
Optional:
Some soft UV resin, it has to be soft since we are gonna cut pieces of it
A UV lamp (or the sun alternatively)
Scissors
Some needles
A bottle of super glue
Pliers
A soft silicone mold, the shape doesn't really matter as long as it's tiny, I used a playing card themed mold for this tutorial.
So let's get started! This tutorial starts with the optional part, but you'll see why in a bit.
First, take your doll and gently sand the parts where you are gonna add the wounds, this is so the materials can adhere better. You don't have to sand it much, just to the point that the top, shiny layer is gone, be sure the sanding block is very fine so you don't scratch up the doll.
Aside from just glueing them to the top of the skin like this to make them look like they went entirely through, you can make some to look like the tips are still inside the arm. For this, take a needle, make a hole on the arm with it, cut the needle in half with the wire cutter bit on the pliers, stick the back half of the needle on the hole you just made, and add generous amounts of super glue, again hold it in place till the glue dries. Do not use this method on the underside cause on that area they are bound to break off like crazy.
I want this doll to have glass shards dug into her skin too, so after you are satisfied with the needles on both arms, take your uv resin and pour it on your mold, if you don't have one you can just spread if on a piece of plastic and cut it up into pieces later, make it sort of thick so the pieces will be more sturdy but not too thick, remember these are glass shards.
My mold has some spades, clovers, hearts and diamonds like those on playing cards in three different sizes, I fill up all of them and then cure them under my portable UV lamp for 5 mins, alternatively you can use the sun.
Once cured, de-mold the pieces very carefully (remember they are tiny and can get lost easily!) And start cutting them to shape to make them resemble glass shards more, I just basically cut off edges and rounded parts. Then using another needle start adding tiny drops of super glue to the arm and glue the shards in place, remember to hold them in place until the super glue is dry like you did with the needles, I added about 6 to each arm cause more seemed like overkill. Again, add them to the top and sides but NOT to the underside.
After that is done, take your needle again and use it to add tiny blobs of UV resin around the bases of the glass shards and needles, remember to add some blobs to the top of the needles that are going through the skin too, be generous with this part, this will make the glass shards and needles way more sturdy. Once you are done it should look something like this:
Not bad right? But not super convincing either, these are supposed to go THROUGH the arms, not OVER them. This is where the cotton comes in.
Take your glue, pour it into an old mug, preferably a broken one that no one uses anymore, and using something like a popsicle stick mix it with some hot water, I don't know if there is a particular ratio, I just eyeball it and hope for the best. The water should look perfectly white though.
Take your cotton, and start tearing small bits away from it, place them over the arm and cover them with the water/glue mixture, remember to cover all of the cotton perfectly.
How much scarred/wounded tissue you want, again, is up to you. I wanted quite a lot on the arms, so I covered most of it. At the very least though, you have to cover around the needles and glass. Keep adding cotton and glue/water mixture until you are satisfied, once you're done, let it dry overnight. Once dry, It should look something like this:
Now it's time to paint! Starting with the mid tone, which is the Carmine red, paint the entire wounded area, it doesn't have to be perfect around the edges specially where the cotton meets the skin, you just have to cover as much as you can, don't worry if you go past the cotton a teeny tiny bit or touch a bit of the glass, blood is messy, it's bound to get everywhere, just roll with it.
After adding the Carmine red, take your hull red, which is a reddish brown color, and start painting it around the edges where the purple skin meets the Carmine red and around the bases of the glass shards and needles. Do this a bit at a time.
Now without cleaning the brush from the hull red, dip it in more Carmine red and start sort of "patting" the paint into where you added the hull red, this is to sort of mix the colors together and create a more realistic tone and variation, you'll see some parts will look slightly more hull red, some slightly more Carmine red, and some in between, that is what we want. Keep going until you finish the whole arm.
Now it's time to add some "highlights" take your scarlet red, which is our lightest tone, and add it here and there, mostly to the parts that are more raised, don't add too much, just a bit. Now like before, without washing the brush, take a bit of Carmine red and "pat" the paint into where you added the scarlet so the colors will mix together, remember to do all the painting steps quickly so it is still wet and the colors mix more easily with each other.
Great! It's looking amazing so far! But we are not done yet. Take your sealant, and give the arms a couple of coats. This should be self explanatory if you are using MSC, but I recently ran out of it, so let's do it using liquitex matte medium and varnish instead. I would highly advice against doing this if it's not with an airbrush, if you don't own one, just get a can of MSC, trust me, it's easier.
Take your liquitex matte medium and mix it with destilled water, it HAS to be destilled water, no tap water. Mix it in a 3 part water to 1 part matte medium ratio. I used .5 milliliters of matte varnish vs 1.5 milliliters of destilled water. This works perfectly to give texture to the arms so the pastels have something to grab on to and doesn't end up shiny or anything. I gave the arms two coats. Remember to spray from a distance and wait 30 mins in between coats to avoid adding too much, which may ruin all the work we just did.
Once sealed, take your soft pastels and your brush, and start "blushing" around the wounds using a mixture of darker red and a purplish red. I am using the colors circled here.
Do this all around the wound, where the purple skin meets the scarred tissue, this is cause the skin around wounds is usually reddish and sometimes swollen, this will also help cover any bits of the cotton you missed around the edges while painting. You can take a make up brush and blush the arms around the joints if you want at this point too. I used a mixture of the reddish purple and the pinkish purple at the end of the bottom row on that picture.
Now, clean your airbrush from the matte medium, and using the same ratio as before make a mixture of destilled water and matte varnish. Add it to the airbrush and give it a few solid coats to protect the arms. Again, DO NOT add too much at once and wait 30 mins in between coats. I will probably add a coat of MSC once I get another can for good measure, but this method is pretty durable too.
And with that, our arms are done!
They look great don't they? I am not gonna add them to the doll just yet cause I need to make her clothes first, which reminds me, you can use this method all over the body, but if you are gonna do it on areas like the legs, make sure to dress the doll first so you don't damage anything while putting them on. Also be gentle when putting the arms back on the doll, you don't wanna break anything now, do you?
Here is another doll I used this method on.
As you can see, she has no glass or needles buried in her, but the method is pretty much the same, only difference is that I first used a Dremel to hollow out her eye socket before adding the cotton. It's also a little bit harder to properly add the color variation since you don't have the cuts as a guideline, but just keep going back and forth between colors until you are satisfied.
Anyways, I really hope you liked this tutorial! Please credit tiny ratcoon's customs if you use it and happy crafting! I can't wait to see what you guys make ❤️
If you wanna help me make more tutorials please consider donating to my Kofi, any donation helps no matter how small ^^
https://ko-fi.com/andreasdollworld
As someone who has always been into survival horror games and enjoys making horror dolls, it was no surprise I quickly came across the need to make wounded or scarred tissue on them. My first attempt back in September 2018 consisted on burning the plastic of the doll's body and just painting on the bloody tissue on the face, which worked semi well, but didn't give me the result I wanted. So after digging up some info online, I came up with this method which I think looks amazing and way more realistic than attempt no. 1!
These are the materials we will need.
A doll, in this tutorial I am using Jane Boolittle
A sealant
A soft manicure sanding block
Some cotton balls, It shouldn't take more than a quarter of a cotton ball for a small project like this
Some glue, I am using aleene's turbo dry tacky glue, but regular white craft glue works just as well
An old mug (don't use your good ones please since the glue can be hard to get out)
Some acrylic paints, I am using Vallejo model color in the colors hull red, Carmine red and scarlet red.
Some chalk pastels, I am using mungyo pastels
And a variety of paint brushes, the smaller the better, sizes I used are 00, 10/0 and 20/0. Remember most of these are gonna get messed up so try to use old ones if you can.
Optional:
Some soft UV resin, it has to be soft since we are gonna cut pieces of it
A UV lamp (or the sun alternatively)
Scissors
Some needles
A bottle of super glue
Pliers
A soft silicone mold, the shape doesn't really matter as long as it's tiny, I used a playing card themed mold for this tutorial.
So let's get started! This tutorial starts with the optional part, but you'll see why in a bit.
First, take your doll and gently sand the parts where you are gonna add the wounds, this is so the materials can adhere better. You don't have to sand it much, just to the point that the top, shiny layer is gone, be sure the sanding block is very fine so you don't scratch up the doll.
I want this doll to have a voodoo doll theme like Cinder, so we are gonna add some needles. Take your super glue, pour it on a piece of plastic or similar surface, I used my mungyo pastels box, wait a couple of seconds for it to dry a bit, and pick it up with a needle, put a drop of it on the arm and start attaching the needles. How many you wanna add is entirely up to you, but I wouldn't do more than three. Hold the needle in place until the glue is semi dry and it no longer shifts around.
Aside from just glueing them to the top of the skin like this to make them look like they went entirely through, you can make some to look like the tips are still inside the arm. For this, take a needle, make a hole on the arm with it, cut the needle in half with the wire cutter bit on the pliers, stick the back half of the needle on the hole you just made, and add generous amounts of super glue, again hold it in place till the glue dries. Do not use this method on the underside cause on that area they are bound to break off like crazy.
I want this doll to have glass shards dug into her skin too, so after you are satisfied with the needles on both arms, take your uv resin and pour it on your mold, if you don't have one you can just spread if on a piece of plastic and cut it up into pieces later, make it sort of thick so the pieces will be more sturdy but not too thick, remember these are glass shards.
My mold has some spades, clovers, hearts and diamonds like those on playing cards in three different sizes, I fill up all of them and then cure them under my portable UV lamp for 5 mins, alternatively you can use the sun.
Once cured, de-mold the pieces very carefully (remember they are tiny and can get lost easily!) And start cutting them to shape to make them resemble glass shards more, I just basically cut off edges and rounded parts. Then using another needle start adding tiny drops of super glue to the arm and glue the shards in place, remember to hold them in place until the super glue is dry like you did with the needles, I added about 6 to each arm cause more seemed like overkill. Again, add them to the top and sides but NOT to the underside.
After that is done, take your needle again and use it to add tiny blobs of UV resin around the bases of the glass shards and needles, remember to add some blobs to the top of the needles that are going through the skin too, be generous with this part, this will make the glass shards and needles way more sturdy. Once you are done it should look something like this:
Not bad right? But not super convincing either, these are supposed to go THROUGH the arms, not OVER them. This is where the cotton comes in.
Take your glue, pour it into an old mug, preferably a broken one that no one uses anymore, and using something like a popsicle stick mix it with some hot water, I don't know if there is a particular ratio, I just eyeball it and hope for the best. The water should look perfectly white though.
Take your cotton, and start tearing small bits away from it, place them over the arm and cover them with the water/glue mixture, remember to cover all of the cotton perfectly.
How much scarred/wounded tissue you want, again, is up to you. I wanted quite a lot on the arms, so I covered most of it. At the very least though, you have to cover around the needles and glass. Keep adding cotton and glue/water mixture until you are satisfied, once you're done, let it dry overnight. Once dry, It should look something like this:
Now it's time to paint! Starting with the mid tone, which is the Carmine red, paint the entire wounded area, it doesn't have to be perfect around the edges specially where the cotton meets the skin, you just have to cover as much as you can, don't worry if you go past the cotton a teeny tiny bit or touch a bit of the glass, blood is messy, it's bound to get everywhere, just roll with it.
After adding the Carmine red, take your hull red, which is a reddish brown color, and start painting it around the edges where the purple skin meets the Carmine red and around the bases of the glass shards and needles. Do this a bit at a time.
Now without cleaning the brush from the hull red, dip it in more Carmine red and start sort of "patting" the paint into where you added the hull red, this is to sort of mix the colors together and create a more realistic tone and variation, you'll see some parts will look slightly more hull red, some slightly more Carmine red, and some in between, that is what we want. Keep going until you finish the whole arm.
Now it's time to add some "highlights" take your scarlet red, which is our lightest tone, and add it here and there, mostly to the parts that are more raised, don't add too much, just a bit. Now like before, without washing the brush, take a bit of Carmine red and "pat" the paint into where you added the scarlet so the colors will mix together, remember to do all the painting steps quickly so it is still wet and the colors mix more easily with each other.
Great! It's looking amazing so far! But we are not done yet. Take your sealant, and give the arms a couple of coats. This should be self explanatory if you are using MSC, but I recently ran out of it, so let's do it using liquitex matte medium and varnish instead. I would highly advice against doing this if it's not with an airbrush, if you don't own one, just get a can of MSC, trust me, it's easier.
Take your liquitex matte medium and mix it with destilled water, it HAS to be destilled water, no tap water. Mix it in a 3 part water to 1 part matte medium ratio. I used .5 milliliters of matte varnish vs 1.5 milliliters of destilled water. This works perfectly to give texture to the arms so the pastels have something to grab on to and doesn't end up shiny or anything. I gave the arms two coats. Remember to spray from a distance and wait 30 mins in between coats to avoid adding too much, which may ruin all the work we just did.
Once sealed, take your soft pastels and your brush, and start "blushing" around the wounds using a mixture of darker red and a purplish red. I am using the colors circled here.
Do this all around the wound, where the purple skin meets the scarred tissue, this is cause the skin around wounds is usually reddish and sometimes swollen, this will also help cover any bits of the cotton you missed around the edges while painting. You can take a make up brush and blush the arms around the joints if you want at this point too. I used a mixture of the reddish purple and the pinkish purple at the end of the bottom row on that picture.
Now, clean your airbrush from the matte medium, and using the same ratio as before make a mixture of destilled water and matte varnish. Add it to the airbrush and give it a few solid coats to protect the arms. Again, DO NOT add too much at once and wait 30 mins in between coats. I will probably add a coat of MSC once I get another can for good measure, but this method is pretty durable too.
And with that, our arms are done!
They look great don't they? I am not gonna add them to the doll just yet cause I need to make her clothes first, which reminds me, you can use this method all over the body, but if you are gonna do it on areas like the legs, make sure to dress the doll first so you don't damage anything while putting them on. Also be gentle when putting the arms back on the doll, you don't wanna break anything now, do you?
Here is another doll I used this method on.
As you can see, she has no glass or needles buried in her, but the method is pretty much the same, only difference is that I first used a Dremel to hollow out her eye socket before adding the cotton. It's also a little bit harder to properly add the color variation since you don't have the cuts as a guideline, but just keep going back and forth between colors until you are satisfied.
Anyways, I really hope you liked this tutorial! Please credit tiny ratcoon's customs if you use it and happy crafting! I can't wait to see what you guys make ❤️
If you wanna help me make more tutorials please consider donating to my Kofi, any donation helps no matter how small ^^
https://ko-fi.com/andreasdollworld
Wednesday, June 19, 2019
Natalia, the star chaser
Age:22
Date of birth: October 23rd 1996
Nationality: ????
Hair color: Red
Eye color: Green
Species: Red Panda
Height: 5'2
Weight: 55 kg
Likes: nature, the night sky, snow, the sounds of the forest, flowers and plants
Dislikes: liars, hipocrites, cheaters, people who destroy nature, being locked up
Before we get into Natalia's biography, we have to go into the subject of what a star chaser is.
Star chasers are a being from a parallel dimension to ours, star chasers look much like the beings from our plane but adorn themselves in all sorts of star related items and stardust.
Now, if I were to ask you what stars are made of, you would probably say mostly hydrogen and helium right? Wrong! In this universe, stars are made of the hopes, dreams, and happy memories of humans. Each human produces a few stars during their life time, and when they become "ripe" they fall out of the sky, this is where the star chasers come in, when they come of age, they come into our world and travel around the entire planet to collect these stars and grind them into stardust, which they store in a jar, once that jar is full, star chasers have the ability to grant one wish to a chosen human, just one during their entire life time.
Star chasers feel a bond similar to that you would feel towards a soulmate towards their chosen human, they say the star chaser and the human are linked at their time of birth, and no matter how far away they are, they will always find each other.
Some star chasers also have the ability to interact with the memories inside the stars, and experience the happiest moments on a person's life through their eyes.
This is the case of our friend Natalia, a rare star chaser that recently came to this world to fulfill her duty. Natalia is easygoing and friendly, she loves our world and everything in it, enjoying everything, from the blazing sun to the freezing snow, from the cold rain to the warm breeze of the ocean, from the green forests to the unforgiving deserts. Natalia is naturally curious, and always tries to remember every single detail of her journey, she also occasionally collects tiny plants and flowers in her bag so she has something to always remember her time in our world by.
Natalia has a corrupted star around her neck. Corrupted stars are stars that fell prematurely out of the sky when the happy memories inside of it become painful, when they reach our atmosphere they shatter and the pieces fall all around our planet, they can be fixed, but most star chasers don't bother though. That is not the case of our friend, since she can interact with the memories inside the star, she could look into the life of the young man the star belongs to, who she quickly bonded with, and she hopes that he can smile and be happy one day again.
Natalia is happy you will be following her adventures from now on and hopes you will one day meet your own star chaser so your wishes can come true.
Tuesday, June 18, 2019
Started a blog!
You can follow each dolls progress at my Tiny Ratcoon's Customs Instagram or follow the every day progress of my beautiful 1/4 BJD Angelika Von Nikolaev!!!
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